Nigerian recipes from Chop Chop

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Our cookbook of the week is Chop Chop by Ozoz Sokoh, a Nigerian food writer and educator based in Mississauga, Ont.

Jump to the recipes: Nigerian salad with homemade salad cream, beef suya (nutty spiced beef skewers) and Nigerian fried rice.

Sixteen years after Ozoz Sokoh started her blog, Kitchen Butterfly, she’s still as intrigued as ever about food. “It’s really anchored me. It’s given me hope, courage, joy,” says the Nigerian food writer and educator from her home in Mississauga, Ont. “Every day, I still have lists of things I want to make, cook, eat, research. I’m grateful that I found my thing. My one thing — or many things — but food is definitely at the core of it.”

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Sokoh transitioned from a career as a geologist to a “food explorer,” culinary anthropologist, food historian and food and tourism studies professor at Centennial College in Toronto.

In her cookbook debut, Chop Chop (Appetite by Random House, 2025), Sokoh documents the foodways of her native Nigeria. She establishes the cultural and historical context, delving into the country’s six regions and the language and lexicon of Nigerian cuisine. In the book’s 100 recipes, she highlights both the similarities and differences across regions.

For instance, Sokoh explains the many forms a smooth cornmeal pap or porridge can take. In the South South and South East, there’s àkàmù typically made from white or yellow corn. In the South West, you’re likely to find corn-based ògì or ògì baba, a mixture of corn, millet and Guinea corn (sorghum). In the north, an Arabic influence can be seen in koko, a pudding made from millet or millet and sorghum (with or without corn) and sometimes scented with spices, such as cloves, coriander, fennel and green cardamom.

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“So, very similar dishes, served in very similar styles, eaten quite often for breakfast across Nigeria on Saturday mornings, but with quite different base ingredients,” says Sokoh. “It made me quite observant between my experience growing up and living in the South West and South South versus what I knew of the north. Having someone hold my hand, guide me and make corrections was a very important part of the process — being in discussion with cultural experts.”

The core of the book’s recipes are dishes Sokoh has “cooked, made, known, loved” over the past 16 years of her blog. Many came from memories of foods she’d eaten growing up or dishes friends had introduced her to. Others came from books, some stretching back to the 1910s when Nigerian cuisine was first documented. Tomes detailing Nigeria’s flora and fauna and dictionaries helped her unlock details that enabled further research.

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Take àkàrà (fried bean fritters), which have ties across the Black Atlantic. One of the early printed mentions in an 1800s dictionary describes them as bread, says Sokoh. “There are so many strands to that definition, but one of them is that it makes a lot of sense, especially when you compare it to Brazilian acarajé, which is a descendant of Nigerian àkàrà. The method in which it’s made in Brazil has been used for the last 300 to 400 years. And if you look at the texture of the fried fritter, it’s very bread-like on the inside. But in addition, the way the Brazilians eat it today, the àkàrà is also like a bread bun. So it’s just like, wow.”

The book’s title itself carries multiple meanings for Sokoh. Used as a noun and verb in Nigerian pidgin and throughout West Africa, the word chop describes food and feasting. On one side, there’s the phrase, “Come chop” — “It’s an invitation to community. It’s an invitation to sharing. It’s an invitation to abundance.” On the other, there’s a “chop chop,” or what Nigerians would call a gastronome.

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“I’m obsessed with food. It doesn’t matter whether I’ve eaten the same thing the day before. There’s still as much love, joy, excitement — and I felt that that was a hallmark of a chop chop,” says Sokoh. “I really wanted to share this depth of love. This desire to be twinned with food. And not just the eating of it, but the community, the sharing, the history, the language and all of that.”

Sokoh is fond of teaching, museums and maps. She’s drawn to curating things, whether pieces of knowledge, cooking utensils or spices. And though she didn’t enjoy geology as a career, Sokoh translated some of the scientific skills into her culinary work, such as organizing information, experimenting and “moving from known to the unknown.”

When Sokoh worked as an exploration geologist, she says maps were essential to outlining concepts and potential boundaries of “geological treasure,” resources such as oil or gas lying beneath the surface. With Chop Chop, she provides a road map to Nigerian cuisine, starting with the fundamentals. “I believe in the importance of foundations. Setting things up step by step, brick by brick, for eventual success.”

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As someone who grew up intimately familiar with the culture and practices, Sokoh says she didn’t always understand Nigerian food as a cuisine. “In the sense of building blocks. In the sense of contextualizing it in global culinary language.” Over the years, she codified the language for herself.

One of the early drafts of Chop Chop started with a lengthy glossary, which Sokoh realized wasn’t ideal. Instead, she arrived at opening each chapter with a visual guide to some of the ingredients featured in the recipes. “I remember thinking, ‘How do I like to do things? When I encounter something new, what kind of map do I need? What elements would help me if they were defined for me? What pillars do I like to construct, or help me when they’re constructed?’”

In Chop Chop, Sokoh makes connections, drawing parallels between swallows (unleavened cooked doughs) and Nepali dhindo, Indian ragi mudde and Czech houskové knedlíky, and bottom pot (the layer of caramelized rice that turns jollof into party jollof) and Cambodian bay kdaing, Filipino tutong, Persian tahdig and Spanish socarrat.

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“There are so many foodways connections across different cultures, whether through the Black Atlantic and enslavement. But I also found similar clay pots between Korea and Nigeria, and I know the Japanese have. I found similar techniques with doughs in Eastern Europe,” says Sokoh, who is currently cataloging 60-something elements based on these connections to create an atlas.

“I think that a non-Nigerian should be able to pick up Chop Chop and find a bit of themselves there. It’s important for me that we all know how similar we are despite our apparent differences, whether in geography, politics, origin, heritage. Those little threads have brought me comfort to this point. I hope that we’re able to see that for the gift that it is and continue to explore and share it.”

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NIGERIAN SALAD

Serves: 4

1 cup (100 g) shredded white or green cabbage
1 cup (100 g) shredded carrots
1 cup (75 g) shredded romaine or iceberg lettuce
1/2 cup (90 g) chopped firm Roma (plum) tomatoes (seeded, if you like), plus 1
firm tomato, cut into 1/4-inch-thick (6-mm) slices
1/2 cup (65 g) chopped peeled cucumber (seeded if you like), plus 1/2 medium
cucumber, cut into 1/4-inch-thick (6-mm) slices (peeled and seeded, if you like)
1/4 cup (30 g) diced green bell pepper
1/4 cup (25 g) chopped scallions
Up to 3 tbsp Homemade Salad Cream (recipe follows), plus more for serving
1/2 cup (125 g) canned vegetarian baked beans, preferably Heinz Original brand
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into quarters, wedges or slices

Step 1

In a shallow dish or platter, combine the cabbage, carrots, lettuce, chopped tomatoes, chopped cucumber, bell pepper and scallions. Drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the salad cream over the top. With a spoon, combine the vegetables gently but thoroughly.

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Step 2

Spread the coated vegetables into an even layer over the dish and spoon the baked beans over the top. Garnish with small piles of the tomato slices, cucumber slices and hard-boiled eggs. Cover and refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour.

Step 3

Serve with extra salad cream.

Note: Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

HOMEMADE SALAD CREAM

Makes: 1 cup (240 mL)

1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar
1 tsp yellow or Dijon mustard
1 cup (230 g) store-bought mayonnaise
Fine sea salt (optional)
Evaporated milk (optional)

Step 1

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, confectioners’ sugar and mustard until well combined. Add the mayonnaise and whisk until well blended. Taste and add salt and/or evaporated milk, if desired. Use immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

BEEF SUYA

Nutty Spiced Beef Skewers

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Make: 12 skewers; serves 4 to 6

1 lb (450 g) beef fillet, sirloin or blade steak
3 tbsp neutral oil, plus more for the grate
1/3 cup (35 g) Basic Yaji (recipe follows), plus more as needed

For serving:
1/2 cup (88 g) Yajin Kuli (recipe follows)
Thinly sliced red onions
Sliced tomatoes

Step 1

If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes before grilling so they don’t burn on the grill.

Step 2

Wrap the beef tightly in plastic wrap and place on a plate or small baking sheet. Freeze for 15 to 30 minutes, until the beef is partially frozen and firm to the touch.

Step 3

Unwrap the meat. With a sharp chef ’s knife, slice the meat against the grain into strips that are 2 inches (5 cm) long, 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide and 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. The easiest and most efficient way to do this is to start by portioning the beef into pieces that are 2 inches (5 cm) wide and 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, and then cutting those pieces crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick (3-mm) strips.

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Step 4

Put the strips of meat in a large bowl and drizzle the oil over them, then sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the yaji. Carefully toss and massage the yaji into the beef until the meat is evenly coated. Season with another 2 tablespoons of the yaji.

Step 5

Working with one piece of beef at a time, thread it onto a metal or wooden skewer, piercing each piece through twice to secure it, then spread the meat out on the skewer so it will cook evenly. Leave 2 inches (5 cm) of the skewer exposed at either end. Place the completed skewer on a platter and repeat with the remaining beef. Once all skewers are assembled, sprinkle the remaining yaji on both sides. Cover and refrigerate the skewers for at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours before grilling.

Step 6

If using a charcoal grill, light a chimney starter full of charcoal. When the coals are hot and covered with gray ash, carefully spread them onto one side of the grill. If using a gas grill, set the burners on one side of the grill to high (leave the other side off ). Cover and preheat for 5 to 10 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate.

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Step 7

Place the skewers on the grill over direct heat and cook for about 8 minutes, turning them over once, until charred on both sides and cooked through. Transfer to a serving platter and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes before serving. (Alternatively, let the skewers rest for 1 to 2 hours, then reheat as needed.)

Step 8

Serve the skewers with the yajin kuli, onion and tomatoes.

BASIC YAJI

Makes: 1 scant cup (100 g)

1 tbsp barkono (dried African bird’s-eye or piri-piri chilies)
1 tbsp alligator pepper seeds
4 whole uda pods (grains of Selim)
3 ehuru seeds (calabash nutmeg), shelled
3 whole cloves
1/2 tsp whole uziza peppercorns
3 tbsp sweet paprika
2 tbsp ground ginger
1 tbsp onion powder
1 tbsp dry pepper
1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp sugar

Step 1

In a spice mill, combine the barkono, alligator pepper, uda, ehuru, cloves and uziza peppercorns. Grind the spices as fine as possible (you may need to do this in batches).

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Step 2

Empty the ground spice mixture into a bowl and add the paprika, ginger, onion powder, dry pepper, salt, garlic powder and sugar. Stir to combine, then transfer to a jar with a lid. Seal the jar and set aside to rest for 2 to 3 days, then regrind and pass through a sieve, discarding any larger bits.

Step 3

Return the spice blend to the jar and store at cool room temperature, away from light and heat, for up to 6 months, or store in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 12 months.

YAJIN KULI

Makes: about 2 cups (175 g)

1 tbsp alligator pepper seeds
4 whole uda pods
3 ehuru seeds, shelled
3 whole cloves
1/2 tsp whole uziza peppercorns
1 cup (125 g) ground kulikuli (peanut snacks)
2 tbsp sweet paprika
2 tbsp ground ginger
1 tbsp onion powder
2 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp dry pepper
2 tsp sugar
1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt

Step 1

In a spice mill, combine the alligator pepper, uda, ehuru, cloves and uziza peppercorns and grind. Add the kulikuli and grind again, as fine as possible. (You may need to do this in batches.)

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Step 2

Empty the ground spice mixture into a bowl and add the paprika, ginger, onion powder, garlic powder, dry pepper, sugar and salt. Stir to combine, then transfer to a jar with a lid. Seal the jar and set aside to rest for 2 to 3 days, then regrind and discard any larger bits.

Step 3

Return the spice blend to the jar and store at cool room temperature, away from light and heat, for up to 6 months, or store in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 12 months.

NIGERIAN FRIED RICE

Chinese Fried Rice Meets Indian Pilau Masala

Serves: 6 to 8

4 cups (about 1 L) Curry Stock (recipe follows), plus more if needed
2 cups (380 g) Indian Golden Sella basmati rice, rinsed and drained
2 tbsp neutral oil
1 medium carrot, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
1 small red or white onion, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
1 1/2 oz (43 g) green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch-thick (6-mm) rounds on an angle
1 tsp fine sea salt, plus more as needed
2 scallions, white and green parts separated and thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 large red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
1/2 medium green bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
1/4 cup (60 g) drained canned sweet corn kernels
2 tsp curry powder
1 tsp dried thyme
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
2 dried bay leaves
1/2 cup (65 g) small-diced cooked beef liver (see below; optional)
14 oz (113 g) cooked peeled tiny shrimp (100-200 count; optional; see note)

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Step 1

In a medium pot, bring 2 1/2 cups (600 mL) of the stock to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice, return the stock to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook until the stock has been absorbed and the rice grains have softened but are still hard in the centre, about 10 minutes. Transfer the rice to a rimmed baking sheet, spread it out into an even layer and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Using a fork, fluff the rice to separate the grains and set aside.

Step 2

In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the carrot, onion and green beans. Season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and cook until the vegetables are coated in oil and shiny, about 2 minutes.

Step 3

Add the scallion whites, red bell pepper, half the green bell pepper and the corn. Cook the vegetables until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the curry powder, thyme, black pepper and bay leaves and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute.

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Step 4

Add the half-cooked rice and stir gently to combine. Add the remaining 1 1/2 cups (360 mL) stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook until the rice is soft and cooked through, about 12 minutes. Season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. If the rice is too dry and the grains are not soft or cooked through, add more stock in 1/4-cup (60-mL) increments and cook, covered, until the rice is soft and cooked through.

Step 5

Stir in the scallion greens, remaining green bell pepper, liver (if using) and shrimp (if using). Cover and cook just until the bell pepper brightens and softens slightly, about 2 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and serve. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 2 weeks.

NOTE

This recipe calls for tiny shrimp, often sold already cleaned and cooked. Thaw them before use. To prepare, season them lightly with salt, dry pepper, curry powder and dried thyme, then sauté to seal in the spices, 2 to 3 minutes.

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HOW TO PREPARE AND COOK LIVER

Often sold in large pieces, fresh beef liver should be medium to dark reddish-brown and moist, with no dry patches. It might come with a smooth outer membrane similar to silverskin. Before cooking, separate the membrane from the liver with a small knife, then peel it off.

Rinse the liver, then set it on a cutting board and pat dry with paper towels. With a sharp knife, trim and discard any visible fat, connective tissue, membrane, etc. Cut the liver into 1- to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pieces.

To blanch the liver, fill a pot with lightly salted cold water and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the salt, about 8 minutes. Add the liver to the boiling water, reduce the heat to low and cook until it firms up and loses its rawness, about 4 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water, then place in a bowl with fresh water to cover and set aside to soak for about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool completely, then use as directed. It can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 3 months.

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CURRY STOCK

Makes: 3 quarts (2.8 L)

2 lb (900 g) raw bone-in beef and chicken pieces
1 large red onion, coarsely chopped
1 medium green bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper (optional)
1 tbsp plus 1 1/2 tsp curry powder
1 tbsp dried thyme leaves
3 large dried bay leaves
2 tsp fine sea salt, plus more as needed
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
4 thumb-size pieces fresh ginger, peeled and cut into chunks
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled

Step 1

In a stockpot, combine the meat, onion, bell pepper, Scotch bonnet (if using), curry powder, thyme, bay leaves, salt and black pepper. Cook over high heat, stirring, until the meat loses its raw look, 5 to 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the meat begins to yield juices, 5 minutes more. Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom of the pot to dislodge any toasty bits, cover and cook for 10 minutes more.

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Step 2

In a blender, combine the ginger, garlic and 2 cups (480 mL) water; blend until thoroughly combined. Strain the ginger-garlic mixture through a fine-mesh strainer directly into the pot, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible, then discard the solids.

Step 3

Add enough water to the pot to just cover all the solid ingredients (about 2 1/2 quarts/2.4 L) and stir well to incorporate. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat, about 12 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the stock is aromatic, the vegetables are soft and the meat is tender but retains some resistance, 40 to 45 minutes.

Step 4

Set a fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl. With tongs, transfer the meat to the strainer. Let it drain and cool for about 15 minutes.

Step 5

With a spider or slotted spoon, transfer the cooked vegetables and bay leaves to the blender with 1 cup (240 mL) of the stock and puree until homogeneous and smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer back into the pot with the remaining stock, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard the solids. Stir well to incorporate.

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Step 6

There will be some fat, which you can skim off immediately with a ladle or large spoon, or let the stock cool completely and refrigerate in an airtight container until the fat solidifies on the surface, then remove it and reserve it for other uses or discard it.

Step 7

The stock can be portioned into freezer-safe containers, refrigerated for 5 days and frozen for up to 3 months.

Recipes and images excerpted from Chop Chop by Ozoz Sokoh. Copyright ©2025 by Ozoz Sokoh. Photographs copyright ©2025 by James Ransom. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

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